An introduction to Rocky Mountain National Park must begin with the trip that gets you there. The magnificent wonders of the Colorado Rocky Mountain region start long before the park entrance station. This page describes State Highway 34, following the Big Thompson River into Estes Park. More pages follow.

Unless you've got a helicopter or jump out of a plane, you'll be approaching RMNP from Highway 34 or Highway 36. Both roads offer spectacular wonders along their scenic routes. Here, we drive from I-25 through Loveland on Highway 34. This is the highest continuous paved road in America, crossing the continental divide at about 12,000 feet and continuing west, when snow allows. But before we cross over, let's get there first:

Number one: fill up the gas tank before you leave Loveland. There are stations in Estes Park, but it costs more to haul fuel up there and you'll pay for it. Loveland is also a great place to stock up the cooler with drinks and sandwiches and pick up a fishing license. Non-residents will pay about twenty bucks for a five-day license. Fishing is free in Colorado on the first full weekend of June each year.

Heading west out of Loveland, you won't have to drive far before you come upon the Devil's Backbone; an outcropping of rock resembling a contorted dinosaur spine. It's your first hint that you're entering a different realm - a place where nature is in charge - an awesome place that will take your breath away and put goosebumps on your arms. There's a new paved road called Hidden Valley Drive just before the sacroiliac that leads to a parking area and the 7-mile hike or horseback ride around it. It's interesting, just watch for rattlesnakes. You'll have to stay on the trail, though. No rock climbing here because of the fragile rock structure.

Continuing west, you'll get your first glimpse of the Big Thompson River. Yes, it would be called a stream where you come from, but here on the high plains, it's lifeblood. You'll read more soon about what happens when it becomes a river! Just ahead on the right, the old Redman sculpture seems to watch as you enter his domain. Expecting you will preserve it, he allows you to pass. Redman, carved from a tree by Peter Toth was relocated from the shores of Lake Loveland after years of service there. Fearing he might fall on someone, the city removed it and volunteers gave it a new, safe home where it can still be appreciated. Nearby, a waterfall shoots through a solid rock wall; a most impressive site when Big Thompson streamflow is high. You'll have to look for it, though, as it's practically hidden on the north side of the road behind bushes and trees, right next door to a stone-faced building.

The Sylvan Dale Ranch sits at the toe of the foothills. It's available for meetings, parties and weddings and offers horseback riding, and a dude ranch which is a working cattle ranch. Just ahead, the kids will love you for stopping at the Dam Store. They'll be telling all their friends how they climbed the Dam Tower at the Dam Store and you'll never get them to stop talking about it. From the rickety tower, you can see a small dam on the Big Thompson that's part of the Dam Big Thompson Water Project. (Oops! Sorry!)

The Narrows lie in front of you and you won't want to go too fast. Right at the entrance of the canyon, Rocky Mountain Big Horn Sheep are known to feed and water. They've been relocated here from inside the park to replenish the herd that once lived here. Early morning and late afternoon are the best viewing times. They'll amaze you as they climb seemingly sheer rockface and jump from ledge to ledge. During the fall rutting season, you might even witness a head-banger!

If you haven't slowed down yet, you will now, as the road snakes around sharp curves along the river's edge. You immediately understand why it's called 'The Narrows'. All during your trip to and through RMNP, there will be many wonders to see. Just be sure to park first; don't try to look while you're driving the winding roads. There are fewer parking areas than we'd like, but we do attempt to preserve the wilderness. An occassional pull-off will allow speedsters to get past you. It also gives you a chance to look around and absorb the beauty that surrounds you.

The Big Thompson criss-crosses the highway all the way to Estes Park. (Wait a minute - reverse that!) A good part of the route has become an escape paradise for city dwellers, resulting in wall-to-wall cabins, stores and homes just like they're trying to get away from; oh well...still, the ride is enjoyable. About 4 miles upstream is Viestenz-Smith Mountain Park, the site that was once Loveland's power plant, devastated by the Big Thompson Flood of 1976. A great spot for a picnic when the Big Thompson is docile. Just ahead on the left is a dirt road that leads to a parking area and the trailhead of Round Mountain. At 17 miles out, a long pullout on the left allows parking and wheelchair access to the Big Thompson for fishing or just plain getting close.

At Drake, you'll need to make a big decision. The old Estes Park Road veers off to the right, or you can stay on Highway 34 for a shorter ride into Estes. Most people stay on the highway and never experience the thrills offered on the alternative. Myself, I almost always take a right turn. You can come back the other way later. The right fork leads you along the North Fork of the Big Thompson, through Glen Haven and on into Estes Park. There are picnic areas along the river and fun hairpin curves up ahead. In Glen Haven you'll find a country store and a restaurant. Deer frequent the area between Glen Haven and Estes Park.

As you rise over the hilltop after the switchbacks, a magnificent view greets you. The Colorado Rocky Mountains, which have been hidden from your view for miles, suddenly appear in your face. It is specifically for this awesome sight that I take the long way into Estes. In fall, you'll be greeted by thousands of elk, which cover the town of Estes Park (see below). In summer, you'll have to wait until you're high up inside RMNP before you spot one. Riding on, you can turn right and go into the park, or cross the highway and be right in downtown Estes Park. There's a tram that takes you up to 8700 foot tall Prospect Mountain for a great view. There are amusement parks and miniature golf courses, horseback riding stables and shopping galore.

Estes Park is also home to the famous Stanley Hotel, built by F.O. Stanley, inventor of the Stanley Steamer. His love for the area encouraged him to build a road, a power plant, start a water and sewer company and the now famous hotel, featured in Stephen King's The Shining.

Estes is tourist heaven (or a tourist trap) but either way you look at it, it's fun to browse the shops for clothing, jewelry, artwork and candy. Restaurants serve good food, or maybe it's the altitude? Many shops offer souvenirs and American Indian handicrafts. The animal carvings and paintings will mean much more after you've visited RMNP. Now start your journey INTO RMNP